The Beauty of Religious Coexistence in India

The Indian Muslim Culture

I had one of the most wonderful experience recently when I was invited over to a house warming function of my office administrator in the city of Hyderabad, India. I will call him SS. I have known SS for over six years. His first name is a popular Hindu name while his last name is a popular muslim name. When out of curiosity I asked about his name, he mentioned that he grew up in a culture where muslims do not differentiate between Hindu gods or the muslim god. My curiosity piqued even more when he asked for time off to take his family to Tirupati to visit the Hindu temple (Tirupati is a popular Hindu pilgrim center in south India). He claimed that it was a family tradition to visit this temple after children write major exams (this again is a Hindu tradition among south Indians).

Few days back we were invited to his place for house warming party (Gruhapravasam). As we approached his house we could hear the loud chanting of a hindu priest. Inside the house we saw his family and that of his brother's seated obediently, dressed in traditional hindu attire, and performing many hours long pooja (Satya Narayana Vratam. Ironically it is a hour long story narration telling what ill will happen if you don't worship Lord Satya Narayana). I sat amazed looking and hearing a traditional Hindu pooja being performed in a muslim house. I was afraid that the local mosque's imam would show up any moment and protest. 

SS father-in-law sat next to me and as I struck conversation with him, he patiently explained the situation. He said that this is very common among the muslim families that belong to "backward caste" (people that belong to the lower rungs of hindu society) in the coast regions of our state (Andhra Pradesh). Muslims are part of the committee that take care of local temples. SS once told me that his family in his home town was in charge of the local temple's keys. He claimed that more recently Muslims of their region celebrate Hindu festivals along with Hindus and vice versa.

Borrowing of other religion's gods or tradition is not accepted in Islam and could be severely punishable. People have been lynched for far lesser religious mistakes.

It is very common in India for Muslims and Hindus visiting and praying to each other gods. Durgahs (muslim saint's tombs) are usually filled with people of all religions. Such simplicity, without minds clouded with religious bigotry is so refreshing to hear in a world filled with anger, hatred, and violence in the name of religion. These emotions are not new to India and may be worst in India. After 9/11 such emotions run amok all over the world. 

My ignorance about Islam especially the subcontinent muslim culture became evident when I was a graduate student in central Texas (College Station). My interaction with Pakistani students and later with Pakistani nanny who brought up both my sons in New Jersey was an eye opening. Growing up in a small town in India I was constantly fed by the media about the "evil Pakistan next door" and by the right wing political parties about extremism of Islam only to know that our muslim neighbor (Pakistan) lives out of as much fear about the Hindu neighbor as we do of them. 

It is after reading about Islam in a chapter in a book written by famous Indian writer, Khushwant Singh, about Sikhism that I understood the beauty of Indian flavor of Islam. Indian islam is not the traditional islam that one is aware of coming out of Arabia. Indian Islam has strong Indian roots of respecting wise people (saints), giving more credibility to those who can quote and teach from many religious books. This is an Indian way of living not just Hindu way. This lovely co-existence allowed India to give birth to more religions than any civilization did and most of them continue to flourish. This fever of co-existence influenced even the most fervent muslim invaders that came to live India. Moghuls, who came to rule India from central asia and Afghanistan were prime examples. Even many of Delhi Sultanate rulers before the Moghuls were tolerant. 

The most beautiful outcome of this is the flowering of Sufism in India. Most Indian muslims, whether Sunnis or Shia follow Sufi flavor of Islam. A Islam that coexists with local religions, traditions, and draws from local culture to build a beautiful peaceful and exciting way of life. Saints like Guru Nanak (founder of Sikh religion), Kabir (muslim brought up by Hindu foster parents), Shiridi Sai Baba (muslim saint more venerated by Hindus) are all products of Sufism. A true muslim from Arabia would be aghast to see an Indian muslim praying in Dargahs, allowing people of other religions into the mosques or donating money for construction of Hindu temples, tying threads to their wrists (thaayathu) and many more traditions that have common roots with India way of praying.

It is said that Indonesia did not convert to Islam because of Arab traders but only after the coming of the benevolent muslim traders from India (said to be from Gujarat) that they connected with Islam and discarded their Hindu and Buddhist religions. They continue their traditions with their Hindu and Buddhist roots to this day.

You can see this fragrance of secularism in India when you visit certain places like Fatehpur Sikri where one of the most secular illiterate emperor of India (Akbar) lived and debated about theology. One wonders why India was the only nation that was spared from the onslaught of Islam conversion from Spain to Indonesia. Indian's philosophy of "Live and Let Live" must be the reason. 

Not everything is as rosy as I potrayed till now. There have been incidents of religious intolerance in Indian history. The worst being the last powerful Moghul emperor Aurangazeb. Whose long rule of intolerance has sown the seeds of distrust and anger between muslim and non-muslim population. One wonders how India would have turned had Aurangazeb had not hounded and killed his elder brother, Dara Shikoh, the heir apparent, who was a Persian and Sanskrit scholar,  knowledgeable about most religious scriptures, translated many Hindu scriptures to Persian and Persian literature to Indian languages, and promoted harmony between muslim and hindu population. The scar of Indian partition on religious grounds and subsequent riots will remain on the Indian psyche for many generations to come. 

But the incredible India of religous diversity and tolerance is not visible when one comes on a quick visit or as a tourist. This is the India I was ignorant of even after living for last seven years. This is the India that hides behind the snarling traffic, polluted cities, and daily struggle for simple things in life like clean water, electricity, transportation, affordable housing.  In a struggle to survive under crushing population and eagerness to catchup the developed societies, is India losing the unique identity, character, and way of life that it built over centuries? As towns and villages become more like the cities of India will it lose the tolerance that is in-built? I am afraid it will as long as Indian schools emphasize more on academics like Math, Science and not on the achievements of its scholars, thinkers, religions and make the younger generation aware of its own achievements especially religious co-existence and diversity.

Few months back, when the gated community I live in Hyderabad, wanted to build a temple, one resident proposed including a mosque and church. This resident was shut off and his suggestion ignored and mocked. This is a community of educated, high worth, well travelled individuals. Is this the new India shining?

As we left our office admin's house after the house warming ceremony, his father-in-law mentioned that had they grown up in the city of Hyderabad (which has a significant population of muslims) they may not have been tolerant.

I have my doubts how long India will keep up with its tradition of secular living. As much as I detest the ruling congress party in India, I have to admire that they have steadfastly held on to the platform of secularism.

[I came across an article recently from a Pakistani newspaper titled "Democracy and Indian Muslims" by Tafail Ahmad. I suggest you read the article in context with my blog here.

Schools & Education in India

[Disclaimer: These are my ramblings of my opinion about education system in India versus USA. This blog is not structured. There is lot more information to share but the posting was already getting too long. I will give more info in subsequent postings]

There is no ethnic group as obssessed with education of their children as Indians (and Asians in general are). While living in US, one reason why I never wanted to return to India is because of education. Now that I live in India, one reason I may return to US will education. That should summarize what I have to say about schools and education in India.

In my opinion, there is very prevalent myth that Indian education is better than what US has. That is a myth. In this article I compare between Indian, American and UK syllabuses. In these days, you can get both Indian and UK syllabuses in Indian schools. In most metro cities you have these 'International' schools that have started offering Cambridge syllabuses for a whopping price. In my opinion, US seems to have to have the better of all three. US text books are collectables. The way they introduce the topic, with graphics, and the wide range of topics. UK syllabus follow a similar philosophy as the American system (practical approach rather than rot learning) but they lack the dept of other two syllabuses. Indian syllabus and way of teaching is only good with Math and none other subjects. Even that is questionable.

So if you are planning to return to India and join your kids in Indian schools you need to learn few things:

• Know the acronym jargon - CBSE, ICSE, ISC, IGCS, SSC, IB are the syllabuses in vogue in India. CBSE and ICSE/ISC are from central government. The myth about them is CBSE is easier and most schools follow this syllabus. ICSE is difficult and few schools offer them. IGCSE is British curriculum from Cambridge. Similar to US style of teaching. State syllabus is called SSC and IB is one of those 'International way of teaching' syllabus.
• There is myth among Indians and surprisingly among some of the NRIs that the standard of education is low in America as compared to India. On the contrary, I find, American text books, mode of teaching, and their priorities far better than British or Indian.
• Indian education system is good in teaching how to solve text book problems NOT how to solve practical problems. What is the difference? Indian schools will teach how to solve academic problems and therefore your kid will zip through all entrance exams and impress the professors in US Universities, and get your first job. American schools will teach you how to solve practical problems which will make you flunk Indian entrance exams but make your respect at work and grow for rest of your career and life. You choose.
• IGCSE is supposed to break from that traditional approach and introduce western style of teaching. The teachers are trained to teach differently but I am not yet impressed with their progress in that direction . So don't expect your child to be taught the western way by joining him/her in an IGCSE syllabus. It will take time. Also, I am not impressed with IGCSE math syllabus. It is way below both American and Indian standards. History and Social Studies does not teach a thing about India. (Your kid will grow up knowing more about Henry VIII than Asoka or Akbar)
• International versus traditional schools - If you opt for International schools, plan to head back to US for your children's undergraduate studies. they will never pass Indian entrance exams. They may not be ready for grueling American style of education (research, writing papers, presentations, problem solving skills). If you opt for traditional schools that follow state syllabus or ICSE or CBSE, then you don't have to contribute towards your 529 plan (US tax shelter for college education savings), your kid will have a good chance of making it to one of the Indian colleges.

International schools don't give as much home works as traditional schools. There are lot more extra-curricular activities in these International schools - music, sports, yoga, drama, dance, swimming, debate clubs, chess, etc. Don't expect your child to learn much from these activities in school. If you want your child to become good in one of these, say music, then you still need get private tutoring at home.

The same is true with subjects too. In spite of paying lakhs of rupees to get this International syllabus, you may still end up getting highly paid tutors to re-teach the subject at home (so why send the kids these schools paying exorbitant fees? I plan to ask the principal next time I meet him).

In Hyderabad, tutor fees range from Rs 1.5k to 5K/month depending on how good they are. School tuition fees could range between Rs 80k to Rs 4 Lakhs per annum depending on where you send them. In my opinion the best schools in Hyderabad are International School of Hyderabad (ISH) and Indus Global or International school based on few visits I made to schools around. ISH is a typical European school with European teachers offering well rounded education (their arts & craft program is impressive). The majority of the students are non-Indian here. I believe the child has to hold non-Indian passport to get admission here. It is so international that they don't teach anything Indian (history or languages or geography) here. So if you are coming back to introduce your kid to Indian culture, this school may not be appropriate.

So what do you gain by Indian education - nothing from the school syllabus but a lot from the society and environment. There are very good chances that your child will realize the competition out in the world and how hard working Indian kids are. They may get serious with their academics much faster than if they were in US. You may not have to give long lectures to them about importance of education, the society will. With respect to Math I have an inkling that the depth of Math syllabus in India will eventually help the kids. Yes, there is not much thinking that goes into teaching and learning Math in Indian schools but by spending so much time on it, kids may lose the inhibitions and start feeling comfortable with the subject.

With Indian education value system and good NRI parenting, you may get the best of both the western education and Indian 'awareness' in India.